Traveling safely with a dog is serious business… but it can be fun, too.  Maybe you’ll be lucky and your dog will be a “Napper”.  On the other hand your canine car companion could be the embodiment of Rover Road Rage.  You won’t know until you try.

TRAINING THE NEW PUP
Let’s start out on our own literary journey down this freeway of discovery and try to understand the many facets of successful traveling with a dog.   And the best place for us to start is with a puppy.  If you have an adult dog that has not traveled before, skip this puppy class and proceed to ON THE ROAD.

Puppies are smart.  They just don’t know it yet.  So you’ve got to show them how smart they are by putting them through a few little practice sessions prior to show time.  Soon after you have that new pup home, spend some time in the car with it while the engine is off and the car is parked.  Tiny tidbits of treats will assure the little rascal that cars are a neat place for snacking.  After a few practice sessions, do the same routine with the engine running in a well-ventilated area (NOT in the garage!)  Do not get all excited about how great the puppy is doing and be overly praising, if you do, your smart little pup will think this car stuff is a big deal and we don’t want that.  To a dog, cars are just another area for snoozing or introspective world watching.  If you are quiet and passive the pup will take your lead and learn to relaxed.

Gently speak to the pup. Sit quietly and try to show the pup that being in the car is normal and not a place for rope tugging, barking or games of  “betcha-can’t-catch-me”.   You set the tone.  If you have to assert yourself, do so.  Command the pup to sit and stay… then offering tiny rewards for being good will reinforce the self-control.  That smart little pup will begin to understand what YOU want and expect.  Remember that what you do now will set the stage for years of happy traveling together.

Ok… so now after a few days of sitting in the parked car with the engine running, it’s time to strike out on that long ribbon of highway that leads right around the block and back into the driveway.   The same rules apply:  Calmness and control shall prevail.  This is a good time to get the pup used to a restraining device that will secure the pup comfortably in the seat and yet will allow adequate mobility.  Any signs that the pup wants to bark or climb through the window (they are closed, right?) to greet those moving trees, busses and other living creatures should be met with a firm command to “sit” and “stay”.   Reward with a tiny treat.  In the beginning keep the trips short and be firm with your control of the situation.  (Did I mention that this takes two people?   It’s preferable to have a licensed driver at the wheel while you conduct riding etiquette school.)  If you have more than one puppy, do not try to teach them both at the same time.  Their attention will be directed toward each other and not on you.

As the schooling progresses the pup will get the idea that trips in the car are normal occurrences and are not constructed for the pup’s amusement.  You will find your puppy pal will be a pleasure to have in the car with you and that it won’t tell anyone about your off key sing-alongs to the “Oldies”.

ON THE ROAD

The very first rule of traveling with your pet is to have an ID tag or other means of identification securely affixed to the dog.   Thousands of dogs end up in shelters simply because the owners never dreamed the dog would get loose or become lost while on a trip.  There are few disasters in a person’s life that are worse than having to drive off without a pet because every means of locating and recovery have failed.  This kind of tragedy will haunt you for the rest of your life; don’t let it happen.  Get an ID tag!

Before you leave make sure you consider the option of leaving your dog in a hometown kennel.  Most dogs love being in a kennel; there’s lots of activity, they get special attention and in most cases consider a stay in the kennel like we would a stay at the beach. Visit the local kennel and see what goes on.  Also there may be a Pet Sitter in your area who would tend your pets in your own home.   With a Pet Sitter you can even call home and tell your dog how much fun you’re having… oh, yes, and also how much you miss the rascal.  

In the following section we’ll sample a few ideas that will help facilitate a safe and enjoyable road trip.  Make sure you know how your dog reacts to trips by taking a number of local short trips, then if you need to take an “all-dayer” you’ll have a good idea of what to expect.   Any “all-dayer” is just a bunch of short trips anyway.  So, before you set off on that cross country trip be sure that you are confident that you can predict how your dog will behave.

MOTION SICKNESS
Vomit happens.  Sometimes even humans get carsick.  Most dogs can overcome motion sickness through desensitizing them by using the same training sequences of steps as described above in the puppy training.  Gradually accustom the dog to spending time in the car with the engine off, then with the engine on, then short trips, then the cross-country adventure.  Prior to a trip be sure the dog has been fed at least three hours before you set off.  You can also use anti-motion sickness medications to help settle the stomach and prevent the sometimes prolific drooling that occurs in a nauseous dog.  Most medications are very safe antihistamines and many dogs eventually can travel without the aid of medical assistance.  Just in case, bring a roll of paper towels.

Note:  Motion sickness or hyperactivity?   Here’s the difference… dogs with motion sickness are generally quiet and even a little depressed because they feel awful.  They will drool all over the place, maybe even pass stool, and eventually start vomiting.  Even with an empty stomach the vomiting reflex can be very strong.  These dogs will greatly benefit from anti-motion sickness medication if it is given long enough in advance of the trip to be working before the dog even suspects that a ride in the car is imminent.

The dog that goes bonkers when in a vehicle demonstrates hyperactivity.  These dogs aren’t sick, they’re possessed!   Salivating, panting, whining, jumping from front seat to back, barking at butterflies and trying to sit on the steering wheel are common characteristics of the hyperactive canine traveler.  If you must bring the hyperactive dog with you, medication to sedate the dog will surely make the trip safer, easier and less stressful for both the dog and the human.

THIS DOG’S HYPER!
What do you do with the dog that simply cannot control itself once that engine starts and the wheels begin to roll?  If you have really tried to train the dog to do as it is told but the motion and noise of traveling are simply overpowering and turn your dog into a slathering, panting, barking demonstration of a Tae Bo exercise, there’s hope!   Call your veterinarian and describe the demonstration.  Then request medication that will “take the Tae out of the Bo”.  There are a number of safe medications that will allow your dog to travel without all that stress, noise and confusion.  It will be a safer trip for both of you, not to mention less stressful.

The key to successful use of pretrip medication is to administer it well before the trip starts.  Some dogs start their Tae Bo routine as soon as they HEAR the word car!  Be nonchalant, sneak a little medication in a treat, and don’t mention the  c  a  r  anywhere near the dog prior to your trip.   If you believe your dog may be a candidate for medication, be sure to do a leisurely pretrip trial well ahead of the time you REALLY need it.  About one dog out of ten will not respond well to a particular medication or a particular dose.   You do not want to find this out the morning of an eight-hour, midwinter trip through the Rockies to accept that national writing award you won for the article on “Logical Steps To Effective Planning”.

ATTENTION!
Yours should always be on the traffic, not on the dog.  If your traveling pal is a little dog, they usually will curl up next to you on the seat and catch up on some sleep.   Do not ever allow them to go near the driver side floor where the brake and gas pedals are located.  Big dogs may be best situated in the back seat and then you can legally refer to the dog as your navigator.  If you choose not to use a seat restraint a gate type barrier between the front and the back seats is a good idea to prevent an unexpected visit from your traveling companion.  

TRAVEL CRATES
These inventions are very handy.  Your dog, if happy and comfortable in a crate, will be safer and you will have the peace of mind knowing it is secure when you must leave your dog alone for short periods.  If you do use a crate, be certain that the dog is totally accustomed to it well prior to the trip.  PetFoodDirect.com has an assortment of crates, leashes and other restraining devices that will add to the safety and enjoyment of traveling with your pet.

PLAN AHEAD
Plan ahead… well ahead.  If you know you will be staying overnight somewhere, be sure to have reservations at an establishment that welcomes pets.  A handy list of “Pet Friendly” motels/hotels can be found if you do a little searching..  Don’t even think about it if you hope to hide your dog in your room or think you will launch a successful appeal to the motel owner’s sense of sympathy if you show up with an unannounced Great Pyrenees.  And don’t forget to bring along some disposable “Scoop n Toss Bags”; you must be socially conscious about where your dog chooses to relieve itself.  Be prepared!

REST AREAS
Make your timetable consistent with occasional stops along a side road where your leashed dog can find relief.  Many veterinarians do not think the Rest Stations along the Interstates are a particularly sanitary area for your dog.  Not that you have to be fussy but why not select an area that avoids conditions where dozens of dogs have already baptized the environment?  And be sure to have some “Pooper Pick-Ups” with you so that in the event of an unexpected deposit in a public area, you can perform the courteous cleanup immediately.

FOOD AND WATER
It wouldn’t hurt to pamper your pal… bring along your dog’s own food and water from home and you will be better off.  Not that you’re fussy, right?  And a few old towels or rags will make good cleanup devices if the dog happens to discover a mud puddle or contacts something nasty like spilled ice cream sundaes!  Emergency first aid kits are very handy for you and the dog if a sudden cut, sliver or rash intrudes upon your day.  Anti-itch medication, bandages, and antibiotic ointments may save the day when you least expect something will go wrong.  It is a good idea to have your veterinarian give you a copy of the dog’s medical history to take with you just in case a visit to a veterinarian along the way becomes necessary.

LEASHES
Here’s a safety tip… Bring two leashes.  That way you’ll have a spare when you misplace one.  Your dog MUST be on a leash whenever you are in unfamiliar surroundings.  All it takes is a split second for a disaster to start its fateful chain of events.  There are hundreds of reasons why your dog has to be on a leash whenever you are not in your own back yard.  Travel crates, human versions of dens, make great containment devices and many dogs enjoy hiding out in them while traveling; bring one if your dog likes the security of a crate. 

HEAT STROKE!
Leaving a dog alone in a car has a number of potential risks.  Always be conscious of the effects of heat buildup in a parked car.  It only takes a few minutes for the internal heat to build up forty degrees above the outside air temperature especially if direct sunlight bakes the car.  Even the dog’s body heat (expired air in the dog’s breath is 102 degrees!) will act like a heater inside the car.  Leaving windows open slightly at the top surely helps IF there is a breeze.  However, that opening also invites children to poke their fingers in or unkind folks to tease the dog with sticks.   Be very cautious about leaving dogs unattended in parked cars. Heat stroke is a dire emergency and one from which many pets do not recover.  And you’d be shocked to find out just how fast it can occur. If you ever find your pet distressed from overheating in a vehicle, get to the nearest animal hospital immediately… don’t even call first; just GO!  For minor mishaps, having a First Aid Kit on hand for your journey may be your wisest investment.  And keep the phone number of your veterinarian accessible just in case you need to refill a lost prescription or need quick advice.  Sadly, many pets are harmed every summer by inattention to the very real dangers of heat stroke.  Look at more info on heatstroke in pets.

puppy-head-start-headstart-101.pdf

Think of a crate as a playpen or as a crib. Or as a dog house with a door.  You wouldn’t let a Toddler run free without a diaper. Dogs are den animals.. so use a crate!!!

Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.

Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog’s life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his “pre-potty pattern” they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal’s urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.

Verbal cues

Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like “Outside?” Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word “Outside” in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like “Outside” will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.

Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase “Do your numbers.” This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the “Number 1″ or “Number 2″ phrases. Others use ‘Do It,’ ‘Potty,’ or ‘Hurry Up.’ As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a “Good Dog” and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word “Outside” be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.

When an ‘accident’ happens

One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it.

Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in his life a puppy’s memory is very, very poor.

Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup’s. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own “pre-potty pattern” before the act.

The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say “No.” Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.

They are going to be excited when you get them outside or to the papers, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like “Good Dog.”

In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With house training this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy’s nose into a mistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor’s dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up house training. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom.

We will give you a perfect example of how this kind of disciplining causes long-term problems between a dog and his owner. A client makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking problem. They are hoping that on physical exam or through some testing we can find a medical reason for the animal’s inability to successfully make it through housebreaking. They readily admit their frustration with the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal no problem. In the examination room, the pup is showing a lot more interest in the veterinarian than he is in his owners. The animal’s eyes are almost saying, “Please kidnap me from them.” When the owner reaches down to pet the dog on his head, the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns his head to the side. The dog reacts as if he were going to be hit. What this tells us is that the dog has been punished for making messes in the owners’ absence. During this punishment the puppy is not, and we repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what he might have done two hours ago. He is not thinking that he should not make messes in the house. The animal is not even thinking about the messes.

The classic line that usually goes with this scenario then comes up “When we get home we know he has made a mess because he always sulks or runs and hides!” The dog is not thinking about some mistake he may have made. Rather, the pup has learned that when the people first get home, for some reason he has yet to figure out, they are always in a bad mood and he gets punished. The puppy has decided that maybe he would be better to try to avoid them for awhile so he does try to hide. In this particular case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy, has caused him to fear his owners and this will probably affect their relationship throughout the life of the dog.

If you want house training to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. In an exam room, one of us once listened to a client complain about how he had to take some time off from work for his own mental health and also, but unrelated, how the puppy was not doing too well in the house training department. For us this statement was just too good to be true. It was the perfect set-up for our pitch. This gentleman, a bachelor, truly loved his puppy. We saw them together everywhere. Still, the problem was that he worked in a downtown office and the pup was home. His work allowed him to get home frequently but not always on a consistent schedule. There would be accidents when he was gone and sometimes he was gone longer than the abilities or the attention span of the puppy.

The solution was easy. We simply suggested his health and the puppy’s training would both do better if he stayed home for a week or so. It worked. Under the man’s watchful eye, he was always there at the time when he was needed and in less than seven days the ten-week-old puppy was trained. We are not saying there was never another accident, but they were few and far between. In the end, the best of all worlds occurred. The man realized his dog could be trusted, and thereafter, they spent their days together at the man’s office.

Feeding and house training

The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns.

All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.

Spontaneous or submissive urination

Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at meeting a new dog, or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age.

Summary

Your new puppy is home and you have started the house training process. This is just as much a part of training as the “Come” and “Stay” commands. However, mistakes that occur with house training can cause more problems between you and your pet than tho

 (I changed the date stamp so that Jordan’s prgress can be viewed in order of her progress)

Jordan, a ten year old Doberman/Rottie.. had a fibrocartilaginous embolism aka FCE
on 8-13-07.. (she was rescued from Dobe Rescue in Fillmore, Ca., at 4 months old..

Dr. Pilch was wonderful and kept her for 4 days.. http://www.animalmedcenter.net/

On 8-29-07, she started twice a week at http://www.dogpaddlewellness.com
with Margret..

Today she stood! And walked with all fours while on the water treadmill… (for the first time since FCE)

First day at DogPaddle with Margret.. note the different look at her face a few weeks later.. below..

Her regular dinner after therapy.. In and Out or McDonalds..

Look how happy she is now.. this was 7th day at DogPaddle.. with her Pa, Robb..

Above photo was day one at DogPaddle..

The ball can now be pushed out from under her and she will stand for a few minutes.. The ball is also used with her bed pan..

Robb is barely holding her.. The ball does Robb good too..

Sept. 30, 2007

Jordan with Louey…

This is week 10 after spinal stroke paralyzed all her legs. This was her 11th visit. She started 8 weeks ago at DogPaddle in Pasadena Ca…

See previous blogs on Jordan. Jordan is so happy for the support of Dr. Pilch and the vets at Animal Medical Center.

if video does not load.. please click or copy and paste youtube below.. working it out!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_W1WUgt3Fo

See past blogs.. Jordan was paralyzed 15 weeks ago with FCE.

A ten year old Doberman/Rottie.. had a fibrocartilaginous embolism aka FCE

First pee on her own.

This is week 15 after spinal stroke paralyzed all her legs. She started 13 weeks ago at DogPaddle in Pasadena Ca…

Jordan is so happy for the support of Dr. Pilch and the vets at Animal Medical Center.

One of the BEST tools for disabled dogs is the exercise ball. They can be put into a somewhat natural position and be easily massaged. Jordan also used a bed pan.

see past info on Jordan’s recovery.. she had a toe amputated a week ago.. It was osteosarcoma and the biopsy margins were clear.. hoping for no chemo..

11 year old Doberman was paralyzed in Aug. 2007 from ‘Spinal Stroke” aka FCE

If video does not appear click http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyVvs8tNpNE

see previous below…

past blog of Jordan

Unrelated to the spinal stroke, Jordan has a tumor on her front toe and will have the toe amputated this Friday..
Results are expected to be good…

FC (spinal stroke) on Aug. 4,2007.. She was fully paralyzed on on 4 legs.. see previous..

Please pass this on…