Read This BEFORE You Give Up Your Pet Due to Allergies…

Posted July 29th, 2010 by Jan

Source: Dr. Becker and HSUS.org

Read This BEFORE You Give Up Your Pet Due to Allergies…

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BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS IN DOGS by Bill Campbell

Posted July 17th, 2010 by Jan

BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS IN DOGS
by Bill Campbell

a MUST HAVE BOOK..     I refer to it often and even call Bill..ALSO AT THE PUBLIC LIBRARY…..

from Bill, worth the read..

HOW DOGS THINK
A NON-VERBAL LINK TO CANINE COMMUNICATION

copyright 1995 by William E. Campbell

Have you ever seen a device or a program designed to correct a dog behavior problem that explained how smart dogs are and how they think? Most plans or gadgets enable owners, literally, to declare war on their hapless pets. Little or no concern is afforded to what the dogs happen to think about them. In fact, the implication is that dogs don’t think at all … either they just react to external stimuli like robots , or respond according to genetically controlled “drives.” Dogs are rarely credited with the ability to solve a problem mentally; to analyze a situation; imagine ways to manipulate or control it, then take a pre-planned course of action toward a goal that was preconceived in the dog’s mind. In short, the dog is considered a real dummy, then treated like a dummy. But this concept is not correct. Dogs are smart. They can, and usually do, think rings around their owners. And they can do it because most owners have never learned how to think like a dog.

Understanding Non-Verbal Thinking

We all wonder now and then what our dog is thinking. If we wonder aloud, perhaps when mealtime is approaching and the dog is looking expectantly at us, we might say something like, “I’ll bet Tippy’s thinking, ‘When is my dinner going to be ready?’ ” In all likelihood, Tippy isn’t originating any thoughts about ‘when dinner will be ready.’ It is more likely Tippy is imagining (or ‘imaging’ in his mind) the words and movements you usually say and perform before getting his dinner; something like, “You want dinner, Tippy?” All that tail wagging and those pleading eyes are aimed at stimulating you to say it.

But, an inability to originate thoughts in a spoken language does not make dogs unintelligent. Even people don’t actively think in a spoken language unless they actively ’speak’ it. For instance, during a short vacation to Japan, if you don’t already speak the language, you’ll probably pick up the meaning of a few words. After a few natives look at you in the morning and say “Ohio,” you may eventually learn that they’re not curious about where you’re from, but are wishing you a “Good Morning.” Still, you won’t think in Japanese unless you live there a few months and actively speak it. Even a pet Akita will never learn to speak or think in the native lingo because their voice boxes, tongues and lips cannot formulate the sounds of Japanese … or English, or French, etc, etc. The limit of our dog’s language-learning is the meaning of the sounds of certain words. Luckily, dogs are quick to learn the sounds that are important to them.

With this in mind, when Tippy is prodding us about serving dinner, we’d be wise to discard ideas about complete sentences being originated and thought about, and replace them with the non-language concept of mental images. To illustrate this further; when most Tippys are asking for dinner they actually look from their owners toward the place where it is served, generally the kitchen.

Evidence of Imagery

Some very convincing research suggests that dogs think in sensory impressions; visual, sound and odor images, etc. This is not to say that they sit around on quiet days experiencing videos inside their brains. However, they likely share our ability to form and experience in their minds certain images, odors and sounds. The scientific basis for this idea came from Russia and was published in the US in 1973. A scientist name VS.. Rusinov1 was studying the electrophysiology of the brain and had several dogs wired with brain wave equipment and radio transmitters. When the dogs were brought into the lab from the kennels for experimental conditioning tests, the electroencephalograph machine was turned on to record their brain wave patterns. This was done at the same time each day, five days a week. One weekend, purely by accident, Rusinov brought a group of visitors into the lab and turned on the EEG machine. Lo, the dog that was normally schedule for tests during the week at that time was sending wave forms nearly identical to his regular working patterns! When the testing time passed, the dogs’ brain waves soon returned to their normal ‘at rest’ forms. I never found any mention by Rusinov as to whether the dogs out in the kennel were actually performing their conditioned laboratory behaviorisms. Chances are they were not, but one thing is almost sure; compared to human experience in similar types of studies, the dogs were apparently experiencing them mentally2,3.

The late Polish scientist, Jerzi Konorski,3 taught dogs to salivate and expect food in their trays when a light flickered. This was done regularly every few minutes. However, after a few trials, the dogs started salivating and looking at the trays as if the food were actually there, even though the light had not flickered. Konorski ventured that the dogs were hallucinating about both the stimulus (the light) and the reward for salivating (the food). One thing is sure: Something was going on in the dogs’ minds that made them behave as if they were happening.

Some Human Examples

Before going on with dogs, let us consider some facets of our own ‘mind’s eye,’ as suggested by Konorski. Imagine we have a date to meet a loved one at a busy restaurant. We get there on time and sit at a table near the door. Fifteen minutes go by, but no friend arrives. We begin to wonder if they are coming at all. We start watching people approach the door. Pretty soon, people with similar features almost cause us to call out to them. The more concerned and anxious we become, the more apt we are to mistake strangers for our friend. When he or she finally arrives, the pleasure and relief we feel is often mixed with mild displeasure. We are ambivalent … we have mixed emotions about meeting them in the future.

Almost everyone has mental imagery. Often, just the thought of a loved one conjures up their image. This can apply to sounds, as well. Think about your favorite musical piece and your can often hear it in your ‘mind’s ear.’ These are positive images. They are emotionally pleasant. At the other end of the scale, recalling a terrifying experience can not only create its images, but sometime even make us shudder. This is an example of negative, emotionally unpleasant images.

Back To Dogs

So it is with our dogs. When we are late getting home, or if they over-miss us because we spoil them with attention and petting every time they demand it, they very likely worry in images, too. They may well recall images of us and our activities, such as fluffing the pillows on the sofa, putting away record albums, handling magazines and books, putting on shoes just before leaving, sitting in a favorite armchair, etc. As a result of this, they often engage in activities which involve them with these images: Pillows wind up on the floor, albums or magazines are moved or chewed, a chair seat gets dug up, shoes are brought out of the closet. If they can’t have us there, they try to interact with things that symbolize us.

If dogs really do store up and recall images of us and life’s other objects and experiences, it follows that we might use this to our mutual benefit. But since most owners do not understand how dogs think, this imagery is where the seeds of most behavior problems are sown. Dogs receive and recall conflicting images of owners and many important experiences.

The Puppy’s Dilemma

Consider the new puppy whose owners come home at regular times and join in an ecstatically joyful greeting ceremony. This imagery is quickly ingrained, and the pup begins to anticipate the experience, just Konorski’s dogs hallucinated about the flickering light and the food tray. However, as will happen in even the most well regulated household, one day the owner is late. The puppy begins experiencing the images of his tardy owners … starts fretting, pacing. Well primed energies, ready for the greeting ceremony, demand an outlet as the adrenaline starts pumping.

What’s going on in its mind’s eye or ear? It probably imagines hearing footsteps, perhaps even sees the door open… which doesn’t happen. But it should. This introduces conflict between what it wants and expects and what is really happening. Conflict creates frustration. Frustration produces anxiety, which triggers an even greater adrenaline rush. The pup searches for something real to satisfy its desire to ‘experience’ the owner … a magazine or book it saw the owner reading recently. It is rich with the owner’s scent. If it cannot have the owner there, it can at least have their genuine odor or taste. So it sniffs, tastes, maybe even swallows parts of the article. Naturally, this does not fully substitute for the whole owner, so the puppy’s social appetite is not really satisfied.

Finally, here comes the owner. The puppy innocently launches into its joyous, semi-hysterical ritual. The owner starts to join in, but spies the pulverized magazine or book. What’s this? Naturally, if not wisely, the owner angrily grabs the pup, drags it to the demolished object and scolds it, or slaps it’s snout or rump, or both. The pet’s single-track mind is riveted on the owner. It yips, rolls over, or struggles vainly to escape. Punishment concluded, the owner angrily picks up the remnants of the article and storms to the trash basket.

Psychic Trauma

The net result of this is a totally confused pup with a conflicting set of images of its owner. This sort of shock to the nervous system is called psychic trauma in both animals and humans. A conflict has been instilled between the positive image of the owner (happy Dr. Jekyll) and the negative (Mr. Homecoming Hyde). This creates frustration and anxiety about homecomings, growing in severity if the scenario is repeated a few times. (It is interesting that in many cases, owners tell us that the pup was fine for a day or so after the first punishment. This may equate to the human experience of repression, in which memory of the traumatic experience is suppressed, creating a sort of ‘backwards amnesia.’) Even when this occurs, since the punishment was not associated with the act of chewing up something, the puppy seeks out another article, perhaps a shoe, and the cycle is repeated until the total relationship between owner and dog is tainted with emotional ambivalence. Mixed feelings are eating away at the positive qualities of their relationship. Negative emotional impressions may start to dominate it.

At about this stage, many owners conclude that the punishment may not have been severe enough. That’s why the correction was not permanent. So they intensify it. The relationship erodes further as weeks go by. Enough of this cascading negative effect and the owner is ready take drastic action. The dog, now hyper-sensitive to its owner’s mood change, feels something is wrong. This often is reflected by new problems, such as submissive wetting when the owner comes home or approaches the dog at other times; off-schedule bowel movements or urination occur, etc.

Many pets act insecure, currying more favor when the owner is home, and hence, missing the owner even more acutely when left alone. Frustration and anxiety build, while the isolation-related, tension-relieving behavior mounts. The unwitting owner, who originally may have thought the dog is ‘getting even’ for being left alone, begins to consider it incorrigible.

HELP!

This is when outside help is often sought. A book is purchased. The veterinarian, breeder, pet shop, a trainer or behaviorist may be consulted. If lucky, the owner gets advice that brings genuine insight into pet/owner relationships and dog behavior. But, more likely, they find traditional quick fixes and the dog winds up in a desensitization program; gets dosed with anxiety relieving drugs or barbiturates; is stuck in a cramped crate or cage all day, or banned to the yard or garage, or has its mouth stuffed with chewed debris and taped shut for hours. Since none of these approaches deal with the causes, the ‘thinking dog’ and the total relationship with its owners and the environment, success is rare. The majority of these formerly precious pets find themselves rejected … relegated to the local pound for five to seven days, where the odds are 3-to-2 they’ll suffer society’s ‘ultimate solution’. But things don’t have to be so grim, if the owners learn some ‘dog think.’

Applying Positive Imagery To Solve ‘Separation Anxiety’

Dogs that misbehave when they are left alone are said to be suffering from separation anxiety. The term is a neat buzz-phrase; almost everybody uses it. It sounds professional. The trouble is, as a transplant from human psychiatry, it really doesn’t convey much useful information. However, the term is here, so we’ll use it in its broadest sense, which is; “a troubled feeling when left alone or apart from a certain person or persons.” This allows us to recommend a remedial behavioral program that deals with the realities of the dog’s total relationships. First, however, we must be sure that the dog’s veterinarian has ruled out the many physical/medical causes for anxiety, such as thyrotoxicosis, hyperthyroidism, pre-diabetes, encephalitis, allergies, hyperkinesis, etc. etc.

The Program

Dogs that are unduly upset when left alone usually enjoy their owner’s attention and petting whenever they ask for (or demand it) when the people are at home. To apply the imagery concept to this relationship, we could say the dog ’sees itself’ as directing, or leading the owner. When it wants some petting, it nudges or otherwise stimulates the owner, and the owner complies. The dog wants out, whines at the door or at the owner, and the door gets opened. Mealtime approaches, dog whines and prances, and dinner gets served. When the owner goes from room to room, the dog is either ahead, leading them, or close behind. This is the reality of their relationship, at least in the dog’s mind. But, when the owner leaves, against the dog’s wishes, the pet is predictably upset, and problem behavior occurs. This can involve barking, chewing, pacing, self-mutilation, off-schedule bowel movements, urination around the house, etc.

The leadership problem can be turned about by presenting a different reality to the dog; one in which the dog is pleasantly, but firmly and consistently told to perform some simple act, such as ’sit’ whenever it attempts to gain attention or affection, or whenever the owner wants to give the dog some attention. All ’sits’, or whatever command is used (‘down’ is a good one for highly bossy dogs) are praised happily as 3 to 5 seconds of petting is awarded; then the dog is cheerfully released with an “OK” or “Free.” (Free is a good release because OK is too common a word.)

If a really bossy dog refuses to obey, and many do when they realize their relationship is being turned around, simply ignore the situation, turn away and go on about some other activity, ignoring the dog. Some dogs have refused to respond for as long as four days before coming to terms with a follower relationship. However long it takes, after a few days the dog’s image of itself seems to evolve from one of giving direction to taking it with compliance prior to being petted, getting dinner, going out the door, getting on the couch, etc.

In moving around the house, whenever the dog forges ahead, simply about-turn and go the other way. This must be repeated until the dog walks patiently behind or, better yet, doesn’t even follow. It is also helpful, but not vital, to practice down-stays of increasing length during several evenings a week.

Images of Hyper-Emotionality

Most ‘home alone’ problem dogs get extremely emotional when their owners get home; some even get excitable when regular departure times approach. To supplant these emotionally over-stimulating images, sit quietly for about five minutes before leaving, in the area where the dog will be left. No eye contact or speaking is allowed. Then, get up and go without looking at or speaking to the pet.

At homecoming, enter quietly and ignore the dog until it quiets down completely. Then it is greeted happily, but briefly, away from the door of arrival. This subdued routine soon replaces the dog’s highly emotional mental images of returns and departures with calmness and serenity.

Here’s the tough part for most all dog owners: When coming home the place is a mess! Pillows have been chewed, or the chair is tattered again, or a pile of poop graces the doorway, or some other problem is evident. If we keep in mind that the dog has in the past suffered from conflicting images at homecoming, it is imperative that no emotion, or even attention, should be directed at the remnants of the problem; such as chewed up magazines, shoes, defecation, etc. Instead, after five minutes of ignoring the dog, it should be greeted away from the scene of the misbehavior, and then pleasantly taken outdoors or to another room and left alone while the mess is cleaned up. This avoids creating new (or reinforcing old) conflicting images of emotional reactions to, or interactions with, the debris, defecation, etc.

I have always called this ‘the secret clean-up’. It has worked wonders as part of programs ranging from digging in the yard to housetraining puppies. Just why it is such an effective adjunct to correction programs remains to be satisfactorily explained. In the meantime, we’ll have to say that the lack of an image of the owner and the mess is more beneficial to correction than is the image.

The Big Picture

So, there it is. Dogs think in images and we can mold and change their behavior in hundreds of ways if we will think as they do. For instance, on the negative side, a set up whereby a car screeches to a stop, horn blaring, just as a dog starts toward the street from the sidewalk, then praising its retreat, is a valuable exercise in negative imagery. However, it must be repeated until the dog avoids the street when cars are not present, as well.

Teaching the ‘panic’ command to come needs the dog’s name followed by a code word, a sound image that is exclusive to coming when it is absolutely necessary, and praise words or a vocal rhythm that is unique to that command, coupled with fast hand-clapping while taking a crouched position. These combined, positive images can create a dog that will dependably respond to your code word and come to your praise. It is especially important to teach this command when the dog is out of sight, as well.

Posted in Books, blog, training, worth the reprint | 1 Comment »

How to clean your cat and dog’s teeth

Posted June 27th, 2010 by Jan

pet teeth cleaning

video

Posted in blog, health | 2 Comments »

Feeding stray cats – palm leaves as dishes

Posted June 2nd, 2010 by Jan

One of the biggest problems is making them a nuisance to the neighbors..

Condider using Palm Husk or leaves to feed and water so that the dishes do not call attention.. see great ideas at web site below..

Feral Power…

The below is borrowed from Stray Cat Alliance

http://www.straycatalliance.org/index.php

ONE:
Feral cats should be humanely trapped. Cats should be vaccinated for feline disease, including rabies and spayed/neutered. After recovery, feral cats should be returned to the colony, at the original location. Surgeries and treatments (including inoculations) must be administered by a consultant veterinarian(s).

TWO:
At the time of the sterilization, Colony caregivers should consider requesting the veterinarian to draw a blood sample from some colony members, for the purpose of monitoring any zoonotic disease that might affect the colony or caregiver.

THREE:
Colonies should not be located near endangered species.

FOUR:
Colonies can only be allowed with written permission from the landowner.

FIVE:
A caregiver and alternate caregiver must agree to take responsibility for the colonies. Ideally, the landowner should take responsibility for their colony. In all cases, caregivers must be trained and certified in humane trapping, recognition of symptoms of feline diseases, principles of feral cat care and maintenance, and policies/guidelines regarding TTVAR-M Feral Cat Colony Control.

SIX:
The organization should monitor caregivers and audit colonies on a regular basis. It is suggested that inventories and detailed records should be kept regarding each colony, and include identification characteristics (including numbers) for cats, medical records, and pertinent history regarding trapping, deaths, and vaccination dates.

SEVEN:
Newcomers to the colony, cats that are losing fear of humans, and kittens should be removed from the colony. A size “cap” should be determined for the colony. While the colony will decrease in size due to attrition, it may be possible that at some point the cats may feel it necessary to allow the addition of a newcomer, or young neutered male. While, the maximum size of a colony will be unique to the environment, under no circumstances should the colony be allowed to grow for any other reason.

EIGHT:
Discreet shelters should be provided for each colony. Diet should be arranged after consultation with a veterinarian(s). Food should be removed before nightfall, in order to prevent attraction by wildlife. Water should be provided in areas lacking a natural and safe supply.

NINE:
In no instance should cats be trapped and released to other locations without the permission of both landowners. Relocation of non-socialized cats to other locations should only occur if absolutely necessary.

TEN:
In order to discourage abandonment, information regarding locations of colonies should not be released to the public.


PLEASE donate to pet rescue

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“the dog was outside all day and then came in and peed!” Dumb dog.. no dumb owner..

Posted May 25th, 2010 by Jan

Here is what happens…

Fido is alone all day in the yard while you are at work…  He hears your car pull up and he wakes up.. all happy and tail wagging to see you.  You are such a happy owner so you let Fido into the house… Guess what?  Fido has not peed since before he fell aslepp three hours ago after that big drink of water…

What to do?  Go out side and play with Fido for a bit until you see him releave himself.. make it a habit.. dogs, and people are creatures of habit..

Very simple, yes?  and I am sorry I called you stupid..

-Jan

PLEASE donate to pet rescue

Posted in blog, training | 4 Comments »

Bringing an ADULT cat into the home

Posted May 23rd, 2010 by Jan

I am reposting this blog. “Samantha” was adopted last night by a 13 year old girl and her family..  Hope this helps…

I love my cats because I love my home, and little by little they become its visible soul.’
~Jean Couteau

GIVE IT A FEW WEEKS.. they do come around.. keep cat in a small space like a bathroom so you will see them often and they can’t hide… of course there is always the adult cat that just takes over from day one.

good info below:
If you are adopting an adult cat, you should be aware that it will take time for him to feel secure in his new environment. Be patient as he will come around eventually and you can reap the rewards of having an adult cat, and you will have bypassed most of the training.

If you have acquired an adult cat, transport him home in a carrier, where he will be safe and secure. Do not be tempted to let him loose in the car. He will most likely be fearful and could scratch or bite you while he is trying to hide.

Once home, do not turn him loose in the house. Your primary concern in to ensure that he has a safe refuge away from people and other pets. Unlike a kitten, he will not cry for his siblings, but he will probably seek out a hiding place in his room.

Provide him with water and food dishes and a litter pan in his room. If he hides under a piece of furniture, place a cat bed or small blanket there for his comfort. He will not use a pillow or cat bed in the open until he feels secure.

Cats do not like changes. They especially dislike moving to a new house or being confronted with any new furniture in their old one. So your adult cat has a double burden to contend with because he has lost both his old home and his old furnishing.

There is no yardstick by which you can measure how long it will take for your cat to feel comfortable. Some will come around within a few days and others may take weeks or even months. Patience is the key to helping him adjust.

Avoid talking loudly and do not make sudden movements. Cats dislike noise and raised voices almost as much as they dislike a new house. Do not pick him up against his will and do not force him to come out of hiding. This will frighten him and he may not be able to trust you again.

As long as he is easting food, drinking water and using his litter pan, you have won half the battle. If he is too afraid to come to you, try sitting quietly on the floor and talking softly to him.

PLEASE donate to pet rescue

Posted in Pictures, blog, cat behavior, reprint | 2 Comments »

FAQs Frequently Asked Questions What is a feral cat?

Posted April 27th, 2010 by Jan

This is borrowed from http://fixnation.org/

FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a feral cat?

Feral cats are outdoor, free-roaming cats who have never been socialized to humans and are living in a “wild” state. This could be a formerly domestic cat who has been abandoned and has reverted back to a “wild” state, or a cat who has been born on the streets and has never had any contact or interaction with humans. Feral cats look like regular domestic house-cats, but because they have never been socialized, they are very fearful and distrustful of humans. Some arch their backs and hiss and show aggression, others just avoid eye contact and run. With true ferals, you can’t pick them up or handle them. Very often you can’t even get close to them. They are the un-owned cats or “community cats.”

What is a stray cat?

Stray cats are former pets or companion cats who have been abandoned or “strayed” from home and become lost. Stray cats are generally tame and handleable. These cats used to be cared for by an owner, but are now trying to survive on their own on the streets. Stray cats can be handled and held, although they still may be skittish or frightened and run away from people. Generally, though, stray cats exhibit similar temperaments as pet cats and can be rescued off the streets and adopted into homes again.

What is a tame cat?

A tame cat is a friendly, domesticated cat. “Tame” refers to the disposition of the cat. Tame cats can either be someone’s pet or companion, or they can be a friendly stray cat making his/her way on the street. Tame cats can generally be picked up, held, touched, and are used to being around or living with people.

What is TNR and what does it stand for?

TNR stands for Trap-Neuter-Return. Trap-Neuter-Return is a community-based program. It involves concerned citizens like you trapping feral, free-roaming cats in your neighborhood, bringing them to a clinic like FixNation to get them spayed or neutered, and then returning the cats to the exact spot where you trapped them so they can live out the rest of their natural lives.

Why does TNR work?

Spaying and neutering the cats will end the cycles of homeless kittens being born so the population stabilizes, and over time it reduces naturally. Once the cats are fixed, the problematic behaviors of howling, cat fighting and spraying also subside. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only humane way to effectively reduce the feral cat population, so that people and cats can peacefully co-exist.

Can’t I just trap the cats and remove them?

Trap and remove does not work. Cats are there in the environment because of two main reasons: 1) there is a food source (intended or not) and 2) there is some sort of shelter. When cats are removed from a location, the surrounding cats breed rapidly to fill in the gap, plus new cats move in to take advantage of the natural food and shelter. This “vacuum effect “is well documented. Trapping and removing cats often results in you having even more unsterilized cats than when you started. Apart from being ineffective, trapping and killing is inhumane and very costly to taxpayers. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only proven solution. TNR stops the cycle of kittens and caps the population growth, so that the population will naturally be reduced over time.

What if I take the feral cats to the shelter? Can the shelter find homes for them?

If you take feral cats or feral kittens to the shelter, the shelter will euthanize them. Feral cats have never been socialized to humans so they are deemed “unadoptable” by the shelter and they are not even shown to the public. They are held for the mandatory state holding period of three days and then killed. Even supposedly no-kill shelters are not able to place feral cats in homes and the cats are killed.

I feel bad for the feral cat. Can I just keep it as a pet?

Feral or “wild” cats are not pets. Feral cats already have a home… outside. Feral cats are very fearful and distrustful of humans and therefore un-adoptable. Confining them in a home is like keeping them in captivity for life. Feral cats live outdoors just like other wildlife.

Feral kittens can often be adopted into homes, but only if they are socialized at an early age. Generally kittens up to around 12 weeks of age can be tamed relatively easily. However, the older the kittens get, the harder it is to tame them. Whether you can tame them or not also depends on the temperament of the kitten; some are more gentle and friendly than others. There is a critical window of time in which kittens must be socialized, and if they aren’t handled in time, they will remain feral and therefore unadoptable.

Stray cats, however, can be taken into homes as pets. Remember, stray cats used to be someone’s pet and were either abandoned or they “strayed” from home and became lost. These are cats who are used to being in homes and are struggling to survive on the street. Tame, friendly stray cats can and should be picked up off the street and adopted into homes again.

I’m way too busy to trap. What happens if I just ignore the cats?

If you ignore the cats, they will continue to breed prolifically. Cats can start having litters when they’re only five months old, and they can have 3-4 litters a year, usually of 5-6 kittens per litter. If you just ignore the situation, in a short time you can easily go from three or four cats to 30+. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only solution to control the population growth. Start TNR’ing now before the problem gets out of control.

What is FixNation’s free feral program?

FixNation offers free spay/neuter services for homeless, stray and feral cats. Under our free feral program, all homeless cats who will be “eartipped” for identification purposes will receive the following free services at the time of surgery: Spay/neuter, rabies vaccine, feline distemper (FVRCP) vaccine, flea treatment, de-worming, fluids, antibioitic and pain medication.

What is an eartip? Why do I need to eartip a feral cat?

Eartipping is the universal symbol to identify that an outdoor or free-roaming cat has been fixed. This involves clipping off, or “tipping” the upper 1 centimeter of the cat’s right ear so that it’s straight across instead of coming up into a point. This is done while the cat is under anesthesia, is relatively painless for the cat, and it does not significantly alter the appearance or beauty of the cat. (See photo below.) Since feral cats are wild, you cannot get close enough to them or pick them up to tell if they have been fixed before. The eartip allows you to recognize at a distance whether the cat has been fixed. It is a sign to your neighbors, other trappers and caregivers in the area, and even to Animal Control that the cat has been fixed.

Eartip exampleEartip example

I have feral cats in my neighborhood that I would like to get fixed. Where do I start? What do I need to do?

Before you can come to our clinic, we first require an application. You can download our application from our website. You will find both our Feral Cat Application and our Tame Cat Application on our homepage in the lower right-hand box under our Forms & Resources section. You can complete whichever application is most appropriate to your situation. When you’re done, you can either email it back to us, fax it to us or mail it in. Our fax number, email and physical address are all listed on the top of the application form.

Once we receive your application back, a staff member will call you within 48-72 hours to get you started, loan you humane traps if need be, and get you scheduled for initial reservations. Reservations must be made in advance. Please do not bring cats to our clinic without a confirmed reservation, as you will be turned away.

I want to get my own pet cat fixed, but I can’t afford to. Can you help me?

FixNation will provide free spay/neuter services for any cat, regardless of your income qualifications, provided that the cat gets eartipped. Under our free feral program, all homeless cats who will be “eartipped” for identification purposes will receive the following free services at the time of surgery: Spay/neuter, rabies vaccine, feline distemper (FVRCP) vaccine, flea treatment, de-worming, fluids, antibioitic and pain medication. We can do a small eartip on request, particularly if the cat is your own companion cat, a stray cat who you rescued and are trying to find a home for, or for any kittens who you rescued who you are trying to tame down and adopt out.

What if I don’t want to eartip the cat?

For any tame, companion cats or rescued kittens who are not getting eartipped, we do offer spay/neuter services at reduced rates. The cost of a female spay is $55 and a male neuter is $40 (as of 1/1/10). We also offer vaccines and flea treatment for tame cats for an additional cost and only at the time the cat is here for spay/neuter surgery. If you live in the city of Los Angeles, you may qualify for a city spay/neuter voucher good for $30 off the price of the surgery (or $70 off for low-income families). City vouchers can be picked up at any city animal shelter provided they have some available.

What if the cat is pregnant?

It is safe to spay your cat even if she is pregnant. The pregnancy will be humanely aborted. While later term pregnancies pose a slightly higher surgical risk, our veterinarians are highly experienced and it is safe to spay your cat at any point during the pregnancy.

This female cat just had kittens. When should I get her spayed?

We request that you wait until the kittens are 5 weeks old before you trap and bring in the mom. Kittens under 5 weeks need their mother since they have to nurse every couple of hours. They also require their mom to be able to keep warm, since they can’t hold in body heat on their own yet. The kittens also can’t go to the bathroom on their own yet; the mother has to stimulate them to go. After 5 weeks of age, kittens can go a slightly longer time without their mother and they are able to eat wet food and go to the bathroom on their own.

After the spay, can the mother cat still nurse her kittens? Is it safe for the kittens?

Yes, the mother cat can still safely nurse her kittens after the spay surgery. She will continue to produce milk, and nursing won’t interfere with her ability to heal post-surgery. It is also safe for the kittens to nurse and the spay won’t interfere with the milk production at all.

PLEASE donate to pet rescue

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Discover the Truth about Feral Cats A feral cat is not socialized to humans.

Posted April 19th, 2010 by Jan

Get Informed: Discover the Truth about Feral Cats A feral cat is not socialized to humans.

from: Feral Cat Alliance

Though feral cats are members of the domestic cat species and are protected under state anti-cruelty laws, they are typically fearful of humans. Feral cats should not be taken to animal control pounds and shelters. Feral cats’ needs are not met by the current animal control and shelter system, because animals who are not adoptable are killed.

Feral cats live outside, but are killed in shelters. Even no-kill shelters are not able to place feral cats in homes. Learn more about the animal control system. Feral kittens can be adopted. Feral kittens can often be adopted into homes, but they must be socialized at an early age.

There is a critical window, and if they aren’t handled in time, they will remain feral and therefore unadoptable. Learn more about kittens and socialization. Feral cats can have the same lifespan as pet cats. And they are just as healthy, too. The incidence of disease in feral cats is just as low as in pet cats. They live healthy, natural lives on their own, content in their outdoor home.

Humans are the cause of wildlife depletion. Studies show that the overwhelming cause of wildlife depletion is destruction of natural habitat due to manmade structures, chemical pollution, pesticides, and drought — not feral cats. Learn more about the human toll on birds. Catch and kill doesn’t work. Animal control’s endless, cruel cycle is extremely costly to taxpayers. Cats choose to reside in locations for two reasons: there is a food source—(intended or not)—and shelter. When cats are removed from a location, survivors breed to capacity or new cats move in. This vacuum effect is well documented. Trap-Neuter-Return does work. No more kittens.

The population stabilizes and their lives are improved. The behaviors and stresses associated with mating, such as yowling or fighting, stop. The cats are vaccinated before being returned to their outdoor home. Not only does Trap-Neuter-Return make good sense, it is also a responsible, humane method of care for outdoor cats.

Learn more about conducting Trap-Neuter-Return.

my feral site

http://fabulousferalfelines.vox.com/

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New Dog In The House – watch 3 minute video before u bring the new dog home

Posted March 28th, 2010 by Jan

Click this  link.. 3 minutes that will change your life..

Posted in Podcast, blog, training, videos | 2 Comments »

Dog Or Cat Itching & Scratching?

Posted March 7th, 2010 by Jan

Why Is My Dog Or Cat Itching & Scratching?
Allergies In Your Pet

Ron Hines DVM PhD

Next to fleas, allergies are the most common cause of itching and scratching in your pet.

Also common, are two forms of mange, sarcoptic and demodectic which can also be responsible for hair loss and scratching. Fleas are dealt with in another article in this series and sarcoptic and demodectic mange are also covered elsewhere.

I included a diagram of the flea life cycle here, because over half the cases of allergic skin diseases have fleas – seen or unseen – as the underlying cause. Once you are certain that no fleas or mites are present, it is likely that allergies are the cause of your pet’s scratching. In human beings, allergies are often expressed through the respiratory system. If you yourself have allergies, you are likely to have a stuffy nose, sneezing and watery eyes. This is because the histamines that humans produce are released primarily in the membranes of the respiratory system and eyes. In dogs, histamines are released primarily in the skin.

How Allergies Occur:
All chronic allergies are based on the body recognizing protein substances as foreign and trying to rid itself of them. Mold, dander, bacteria, pollen, flea saliva along with a host of other substances are allergens made up of proteins foreign to the body.
We will talk about pollen allergies for an example because they are so common. In this case pollen is called an allergen – something the body recognizes as foreign. When a pet’s immune system is exposed to pollen for the first time, some pollen attaches to the linings of the nose and lungs . The body’s immune system recognizes that pollen is not supposed to be there and, in response, produces antibodies against the pollen called immunoglobulins of the E class (IgE) and G class (allergen-specific IgG). This process is called sensitization. The IgE attaches to cells in the body called mast cells. These cells then leak and release histamines, bradykinins, and proteolytic enzymes, which cause the symptoms of allergy. In people large numbers of mast cells are located in the respiratory system. That is why our allergies usually have respiratory system symptoms. In dogs and cats, more mast cells are present in the skin. That is why dog and cat allergies usually cause signs associated with the skin and ears such as itching, hives and inflammation. This allergic disease is called atopy. Only 15% of pollen allergies in dogs and cats cause respiratory system signs, such as nasal stuffiness and sneezing.

Types of Allergies:

There are two types of allergies that cause dogs and cats to itch. Because susceptibility to allergies is inherited, it is quite common for pets to have both types.
Canine Inhalant Atopy
This is the type of allergy for which we used pollen as an example. It is the most common form of allergy in dogs and cats, making up over ninety percent of the cases I see. About nine percent of the canine population has this disease. Certain breeds are more susceptible to than others. Among the most susceptible are Shar-peis, Fox Terriers, Golden Retrievers, West Highland White Terriers, Scottish Terriers, Shih Tzus, Dalmatians, Lhasa Apsos, Boston Terriers and Labrador Retrievers. Cats of any breed can be affected. Dogs usually show their first signs of itching between 10 months and 4 years. If a dog does not have this condition by the time it is four years of age it is unlikely that it will ever have atopic skin disease. The disease often begins as a seasonal problem but after a number of years (or moving to a southern climate) the itching occurs year round. Some common allergens are flea saliva, tree, grass and shrub pollens, house dust, mold, dust mites, and feathers.
Flea saliva allergy is a special form of Atopy. Fleas survive by sucking blood from your pets. To get this blood they drill their mouthparts into the dog or cat’s skin and inject special anticoagulant saliva into the site to keep blood flowing while they engorge. This saliva is highly irritating to some dogs and cats. These pets do not only itch at the site of the flea bites, they itch all over. The pads of their feet are often itchy, puffy and inflamed. Areas between the toe pads as well as the ears often become infected with bacteria due to the pets constant licking and chewing. Because of the availability of excellent flea-control products such as Advantage and Frontline, I see less flea allergy than I used to.

Food Allergies:

Food allergy cases are less than fifteen percent as common as canine atopy but occur with about the same frequency as atopy in cats. The itching food allergies produce is constant throughout the year. Cocker Spaniels, West Highland White Terriers and Labrador Retrievers are particularly susceptible to food allergies. However, the majority of these breeds that have itching problems do not have food allergies. Dogs and cats can be any age older that a few months when signs first begin. Some common food allergies in dogs are to beef and pork, fish, dairy, eggs, corn, soy, wheat and preservatives and dyes in food and treats. But almost any diet ingredient can be involved. The most common allergens in cats are to fish, beef and chicken.

Symptoms:

Canine Atopy and food allergies are not visually distinguishable because the signs of both diseases are the same. The most common sign of the conditions is constant itching, scratching and licking. Dogs will often rub on objects. The degree of discomfort the pet undergoes is partly dependent on its temperament. High strung breeds and very active pets do severe damage to their skin. The face, lumbar area at the base of the tail (particularly if fleas are the cause) ears and paws show the most damage. In severe cases the skin of the whole body is inflamed and covered in crusts while the hair coat is thin and broken. In mild cases the pets only lick these areas, discoloring light hair coats with salivary stain. When fleas are the problem, small pepper-like granules are present over the neck or in the dorsolumbar area. These specks of digested blood or flea dirt will “bleed” a rust-colored trail if moved to white tissue paper and wetted with water.

As the dog or cat scratches, it destroys the outer waxy layer of the skin. This allows bacteria and mold to enter the skin and causes a musty, oily skin condition called seborrhea. Because ears are covered with skin, ear canal redness, odor and inflammation are common in canine atopy. Sometimes ear problems are the only sign present. When this is the case, we treat the ears with specific antibiotic, antifungal, corticosteroid preparations but must treat the whole dog with medications as well.

Cats develop a condition called milliary dermatitis in which the surface of the back and scruff of the neck are covered with bumps and scabs. Allergic cats sometimes develop another condition called eosinophilic granuloma complex in which ulcers form on the lips, tongue and surface of the body. After months and years of scratching, the skin of the inner thighs and flank often becomes thickened and blackish. This condition is called acanthosis nigricans.

Damaged skin due to the pets scratching often leads to superficial staphylococcus bacterial infections (pyoderma) and infection with the yeast, Malassezia. Mild bacterial conjunctivitis or eye infections with greenish matter at the inner corner of the eye are common. It is important to realize that although a bacterial or fungus condition is present and may need treatment, the root of the problem is allergic dermatitis. In very severe cases of skin allergy, the superficial lymph nodes of the body enlarge due to secondary skin infections.

Diagnosis of Allergic Skin Problems:

The clinical diagnosis of allergic dermatitis is one of exclusion of other causes of skin disease. I usually do skin scrapings when pets with this condition are presented to me for the first time. Through skin scrapings, I try to rule out mange as a cause of the pet’s problems and locate bacteria and fungi. If I cannot rule out mange, if the dog’s history suggests it might be mange, or other members of the household are itching, I may put the pet on a test dose of a safe anti mange medicine called ivermectin. I next try to rule out fleas as the source of the problem. Some dogs are so good at grooming that no fleas remain on them when they are examined. Even when I cannot locate fleas on the pet I can often locate flea dirt. In some of these pets the presence of tapeworms is the only indication of fleas or I may find fleas on another household pet, which does not have skin problems.

There are other signs that the problem may be allergic. Typically atopy occurs in dogs between one and three years of age. This makes the diagnosis of allergies in puppies and older dogs less likely. The first two or three years that the condition exists it is often seasonal occurring only in the spring and summer months. Flea-related allergies tend to subside after the first few freezes of the winter. Golden retrievers and arctic breeds with thick oily hair are susceptible to a special form of dermatitis called hot spots or acute pyotraumatic dermatitis. In these cases the dogs suddenly become extremely itchy over a small area. They are so troubled that they pull out the fur of this area and infect it through chewing in a matter of hours. The itching sensation departs rapidly thereafter -with or without treatment. It is not known if they represent a true form of allergy. Another form of the disease is called acral lick dermatitis. In these cases a small area of skin itches over an extended period. Licking leads to a well-defined small area of raw skin, scarring and bacterial infection.

I try to learn if the parents of the dog or cat or its brothers and sisters also have itchy skin disease. Canine atopy as well as food allergies runs in families.

In diagnosing food allergies I look for uniform involvement of the skin over the entire body. I rarely find that diarrhea accompanies food allergies. Often the best way to rule out food allergies is to put the pet on a sixty to ninety day trial eating a hypoallergenic diet exclusively. Many hypoallergenic diets are available. Until recently these diets relied on novel protein sources such as lamb, venison duck or fish. The problem is that with time, pets eventually became allergic to these diets too. Now two brands of hypoallergenic diets are available that use heat and hydrolysis to break food proteins into a size too small to cause allergies (less than 10,000 daltons). The biggest problem with these diets is that some pets won’t eat them.

I will usually examine pets with skin disease in a darkened room with an ultraviolet lamp. Hairs that glow are diagnostic for ringworm. Ringworm is almost never itchy and glowing hairs are not found in cases of allergic skin disease.

Il often encounter Malassezia yeast in skin scrapings of dogs with itchy skin. This fungus is a normal inhabits the skin of dogs. It only becomes a problem when the pet has an underlying problem such as allergic skin disease. Antifungal shampoos are quite helpful in controlling it.

Allergy Tests

Rast Test (In-vitro (laboratory) test, performed on your pet’s blood)

As in humans, allergy testing can be helpful in diagnosing allergic skin disease. Two forms of allergy testing are available. The easiest and most commonly performed test in animal hospitals is called the RAST test. This test, which is performed on a blood sample from your pet, stands for radioallergosorbent test. In the test, the presence of IgE antibodies to specific antigens is determined by a central laboratory. Pets must not have had corticosteroids or antihistamines administered for thirty days prior to testing. The problem with this test is its high number of false positives. If the test determines that a pet is not allergic to an antigen – that is probably correct. But positive reactions often turn out to be wrong. If the RAST test is used, the central laboratory will prepare an antigen extract, which can be injected into the pet’s skin periodically to decrease the effects of allergies. The most current research indicates that this test extremely inaccurate in pets and humans. Go with skin tests if at all possible.

Skin Test

A more reliable test is an intradermal skin test. Before the test is administered, the pet is taken off all corticosteroid, tranquilizing or antihistamine medications for 30-60 days. In this test, small amounts of various allergens are injected into the skin. The entire side of the pet must be shaven to perform this test. Then the injection sites are monitored over an hour’s period to judge the degree of redness and swelling at each site. A list of offending antigens is used to prepare an allergen extract, which is injected periodically into the pet. With time and success, these injections lessen the pet’s allergies to these allergens. Because a high degree of skill is necessary in giving and interpreting the results of this test, veterinary dermatologists usually perform it.

Occasionally, when I am uncertain if the problem is a routine case of allergy, I will take a biopsy specimen of the skin involved and send it to a pathologist for evaluation and diagnosis. This can rule out the presence of other disease such as lupus. Blood tests may detect elevated levels of eosinophiles, which occasionally also occur in allergic skin disease.

Treatment of Allergic Skin Disease:

It is next to impossible to avoid all the environmental allergens that plague allergy-prone dogs and cats. The exceptions are pets that are chiefly bothered by fleas. I enforce strict flea control – even if I am uncertain that fleas are present. Many dogs and cats are cured by this simple task alone.

Approximately one in twenty of my clients elect to undergo skin testing and desensitization of their pets. This figure differs from practice to practice. The procedure takes a bit over a year to show results. Dermatologists argue for the procedure pointing out, correctly so, that even if desensitization does not cure the pets, it may lower the dose of corticosteroids they require later in the disease. Skin testing also identifies the allergens and perhaps some of them can be avoided or eliminated from the pet’s environment. The procedure is extensive, expensive, and requires a life-long commitment to frequent injections. Most owners learn to give these injections themselves.

Medicines of the cortisone class are effective and dramatic in controlling the symptoms of allergic skin disease. The problem is that this class of drugs has substantial and serious side effects when given in high doses or over extended periods of time. My challenge is to treat these pets as long as I can without the use of these steroids. To do so, I use medications that are effective but less dramatically so.

Medicated Shampoos.

Medicated shampoos are quite soothing to inflamed skin and lessen itching. I begin using clear tar preparations such as lye tar shampoos. If these are not adequate, I dispense selenium sulfide or benzyl peroxide shampoos. Benzyl peroxide is quite effective in eliminating secondary bacterial infections in these cases. Some pets are helped by oatmeal and antihistamine shampoos. With all these products, the skin should first be cleansed with soapless soaps and then the medicated product massaged in and allowed a long contact period with the skin – the longer the better. Weekly shampooing along with flea control is often sufficient for a number of years. Some pets cannot tolerate weekly bathing as it dries out their skin too much. Use of a skin conditioning rinse helps in some cases. Also, use temperate, not hot water, when you bath your pets.

Antihistamines and tranquilizers

Antihistamines block the release of histamines by mast cells. They are quite helpful to some pets. Unfortunately, the effects are not as dramatic as in humans. Ciproheptadine given twice a day, hydroxyzine or even OTC Chlorpheniramine maleate are effective in lessening symptoms in some dogs and cats. Many antihistamines have a calming effect in dogs. I have had cat owners discontinue their use because they did not like personality changes in their cats while on these medications. Some antihistamines can be applied in shampoo form. Some dogs do well when given mild tranquilizers such as acepromazine at 0.25mg/ pound.

Corticosteroids

Many owners are worried when we suggest that their pets receive measured doses of corticosteroids to treat stubborn allergy cases. They should not be. These drugs have nearly miraculous powers in both human and animal medicine. They just should not be over used. Some drugs of the cortisone class are prednisolone, prednisone, triamcinolone, dexamethasone, beclomethasone, and betamethasone. Often I use so little of these drugs that a bit of itching persists but at a tolerable level. I usually give prednisolone or prednisone two or three times a week. At a low dose I do not encounter noticeable side effects. There will often be a point, many years into the disease, when higher cortisone doses are required. Combining topical medications, antihistamines, desensitization and cortisone let us keep the cortisone dose as low as possible. I do not feel that I have ever used cortisone to an extent that an allergic pets life was shortened although some have suffered weight gain. I do know that the use of these drugs has greatly improved the quality of many pets’ lives. Whenever possible, the use of long acting corticosteroids such as methylprednisolone acetate should be limited to a single yearly injection or oral forms of corticosteroids used instead. You may notice that your pet drinks more and urinates more on these medications. If they are over used a disease called Cushings Syndrome or hyperadrenocorticism can result (see article on that subject).

Antibiotics

Dogs that are presented to me with severe bacterial skin infections subsequent to self- trauma (scratching) need a two-week course of antibiotics to clear up the infection. I like to use a broad-spectrum antibiotic such as one of the fluroquinolones (Batryl) or a potentiated cephalosporin such as Clavamox (Augmentin). I begin antihistamines and medicated shampoos in these cases immediately but I delay any corticosteroids until the skin has healed. If yeasts are an important component of the problem I treat them with ketaconazole shampoos.

Food Supplements

There are a very large number of “neutraceutical” products marketed for allergic skin disease. Many of them have never been scientifically tested. The best that can be said of many of these products is that they can do no harm. When I recommend these products, I usually suggest one that combines omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Many of these products also contain zinc. Some clients find them beneficial.

Distractions

No matter what the underlying cause of itching is in your pet, boredom, inactivity and unoccupied time will make it worse. It is not unusual for the underlying cause of itching to be eliminated by your veterinarian, only to have the pet continue to scratch and lick itself from force of habit. To minimize this, give your pets plenty of distractions. Hidden food morsels, toys and chew toys, walks, play time, other pets, and view through a porch, kennel or window all take your pet’s mind off of its skin. Try these distractions, and others you might think of, before you resort to tranquilizers and mood-altering medications.

Your Pet’s Future:

Allergic dermatitis is a life long condition. Unless the problem is solely fleas there are no cures. Luckily it is not a life threatening or a life shortening condition and it can be managed with a minimum of inconvenience. Often, there will be periods of a year or more when the disease is not as severe and needs less or no medications. When a family moves the disease is often left behind. Unfortunately not too much time passes at their new location before the pet becomes allergic to new allergens. Because this is an inherited trait, pets with this disease should never be bred. The fact that so many pets suffer from allergic skin disease shows that many breeders disregard this advice.

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